Grapefruit and lychee open somewhere between tart and sweet, closer to fruit than the aldehydic sparkle Chanel usually reaches for. It reads younger than most of the house's other openings, which is clearly the point.

Rose and jasmine take over at the center, and this is where Crush Absolu earns the Coco Mademoiselle name. The florals are present without turning heavy or old-fashioned, the same trick the original has pulled off since 2001.

Vetiver, vanilla, and patchouli close it out, each doing a different job: vetiver for structure, vanilla for warmth, patchouli for the woody grip that keeps it from floating away. It settles into something that reads more evening than afternoon.

Olivier Polge composed Crush Absolu, and Chanel timed the launch for August 19, Gabrielle Chanel's birthday. Sentimental or savvy, or both. Available in 50ml ($162) and 100ml ($195).